High Class No Class.

Unprofessional Cookery

 

Do you remember back when you were a kid and you would look at those colorful bricks of ramen noodles in the store?  What did you think about that?  Did you think “OOOoooooOOOOOOhhh!  Ippudo!  Slice me some pork belly on that son!”?  Or, like me, did you think “Ew, poor people food.  Lets hope nobody sees this in the basket.”

If you thought the latter, you’re clearly not a millennial.  Pre-Ippudo when I was in college I was no stranger to the mysterious Oriental seasoning packet. Begrudgingly I slurped up slightly slimy noodles for meals at a time, oftentimes garnished with (shudder) frozen vegetables.  It filled my stomach, I’m not proud.  It was the mid-nineties, long before ramen became something of a cult.

As the years went on and my income ever still tentative, I put away the noodle bricks of my youth until a couple of years ago.  Somewhere along the line I had missed the boat, but ramen had become cool again.  Suddenly people were exalting the bricks on high like they had reached a new level of soup consciousness.  Much like my grudge against the taco being “edgy”, I couldn’t see why people were so nutty over a bowl of noodle soup.  I had to investigate. Read the rest of this entry »


Honey Boo Boo Cake.. And Other News.

Unprofessional Cookery

This year, I’ve been on a frosting quest.

Not a buttercream frosting quest or a poured fondant quest, no maám.  I want to know what that ultralight whipped frosting from grocery stores is and how its made, as its my achilles heel.  My kryptonite.  My everything.  So I’ve let my fingers do the walking to find what this mysterious frosting is called and a recipe ratio I can hack.

Read the rest of this entry »


Forget Pants, I’m Just Giving Up.

Unprofessional Cookery

When you think about it, everything is blending into a melange of on par these days.  I mean, not just in terms of fall, although everything will soon be fading into a state of mushy browns and gray, but everyone.

Think about it.  Before you knew what this thing called a BBS or an internet was (providing you were actually born before 1990), things far away seemed exotic.  Texan accent?  Exotic.  Mission style burritos, exotic.  That one kid in your school whose mom was from New York and named him SalvaTORE, not SalvaDOR even though all your classmates had never been past Idaho.  You get the idea.  Since we were really only connected by letters and phone calls, card catalogs and books, there was a touch of distinction to our regional backgrounds.  Now I can order Cheerwine by the case without leaving my chair.

So I showed up late to the game on one of New York’s old school food stuff, but I’m tickled to see how many people here go ape poop over them about now.  Mallomars.  Tiny hockey pucks of graham and marshmallow depicted with luscious dark chocolate flowing over, they’re only available to shove in your mouth half of the year.  Move over pumpkin bender, you’ve got a serious contender for the season.

I noticed these little puffs in the grocery store the other day while hungrily shopping and decided that now was the time for some investigative journalism.  The whole wall seemed to be an endless brick structure of yellow boxes that were moving fast, so I had to jump into the game.  Along with my other questionable moment of hunger choices (green olives and licorice allsorts?  Really?), I happily ran home to see what the fuss was about.  I opened up the box, pried open the airtight chamber and…

SWEET BABY JESUS THESE COOKIES WERE THE REASON FOR LIFE WORTH LIVING.

Here’s the thing.  Mallomars aren’t overly sweet.  The airiness of the overall cookie floated on my tongue and between my teeth just so.  The graham cookies had long since gone soft and crumbly and the chocolate shell was nothing but a wisp, but they just worked together perfectly.  They were just enough to say that it was sweet, it was going to be okay until my next meal.  These were my new jam of the week.  But why couldn’t I get them all the time?  Was it to save me from a life of a shut in, surrounded by empty safety yellow boxes?

No.  Its all in the history of the cookie.

Mallomars aren’t revolutionary in the cookie world.  Marshmallow cookies have been produced for hundreds of years, dating back to Denmark in the early 19th century (at least).  All over the world people have their own varieties of marshmallow cookies, which vary in size and shape and perhaps slightly in texture.  For example, in Scotland you can get Tunnock’s Teacakes after a blood transfusion any time of year.  (Tunnock’s features a shortbread base and Italian meringue.)  In Israel, you’d be in the market for a Krembo when you wanted a marshmallow cookie, which are oftentimes seen as a wintertime alternative to ice cream.  Germans love their schokokus cookies, domed high with marshmallow and not so much cookie.  They’re ubiquitous, the UN of snacks.

Although marshmallow cookies are common all over the world, we obviously don’t have the same climate everywhere.  So when Nabisco started rolling out the Mallomar in 1913 regionally, it was seen as a fall and winter cookie because the fragile chocolate shell wouldn’t stand up to the brutal heat of the New York metropolitan area summer.  Although these days the Mallomar production line is actually based in Toronto (not known for its searing temperatures), the tradition stuck and now people have to just make do with what they can get from October until April.

However, there is an upside to this (speaking of Canada).  As mentioned before, marshmallow cookies aren’t regionally unique and the little Nabisco ones are made by our neighbors to the north.  If you head straight up from New York, way up to the tippy top, way beyond the Baseball Hall of Fame and the Finger Lakes, a long drive beyond the short A accents, then you’re going to hit Montreal- home of the Whippet.  Whippets, unlike Mallomars, are produced all year round because it’s not as hot up there in the summer.  So, if you’re in a bind for a few months, you have options.

Anyways, Nabisco claims that 70% of the domestic Mallomar consumption is actually from the New York metropolitan area.  (I’m assuming the other 30% is a melange of Pennsylvania and Florida.)  The first box of Mallomars ever sold according to MY Mallomar box say that it happened in West Hoboken, New Jersey.  As the cookies don’t really ship that well due to their delicate nature, they stayed a regional favorite since that first sale in ‘Boken as they are today.  Until 1930, we even had a Nabisco factory in Chelsea, ensuring their local status of the Mallomar.  Personally, I cannot recall ever having seen them west of the Mississippi at any time in my life ever, so I guess it must be true.

Anyways, now that I’ve been exposed to the world of marshmallow cookies, my life is forever changed.  No longer will I be content with a clunky, heavy s’more.  My once favorite Moon Pie has simply become a sliver of what it once was in the night sky.  I have begun to seriously consider the muu-muu lifestyle, free to let my hips widen with every box of pillowy goodness from now until April.

Damn you Nabisco, damn you to hell.


Awash In Condiments.

unprofessional cookery

This morning, as I was lathering up the shampoo, I paused.  Then I continued shampooing.  Then I paused again, a bit longer this time.  I was perplexed as well as having soap in my  eye.

I had no subject to write about today.  My mind was elsewhere.

Noting the stinging, I pushed my head under the shower stream, admonishing myself to pull it together.  “Think!”  I told myself.  “You’ve got about 5 minutes to come up with your magnum opus!  You can do this, quit being a pansy!”

No pressure.

As the burning in my eyes subsided, I remembered this thing that my coworker showed me the other day.  Something pure genius when it comes to transferring a lot of one viscous fluid to another container with a persnickety top.  Although in our reference it was for hand soap, this idea originated from a vat of ketchup. Read the rest of this entry »


I Car Bombed A Boilermaker LIVE.

Unprofessional Cookery

I was reading the New York Magazine approval matrix today and I saw this little point fairly far down on the “highbrow” and “acceptable” quadrant that caught my eye.  Fred Armisen, funnyman supreme, had made a book trailer for Penny Marshall’s new book My Mother Was Nuts.  My eyebrow raised a bit in a certain manner, my finger stroking my chin in that presumptuously educated way as one might when reading New York Magazine .  Reeeeeaally.

I had to check it out.

I did, and I just about asphyxiated from laughing so hard when I watched it.  If you haven’t seen it yet, you’re doing yourself a disservice.  Stop right now and check this out, I’ll wait.  Read the rest of this entry »


Hot’n'Spicy!

unprofessional cookery

 

Be it out of convenience or laziness, every morning I take down the container of oatmeal for breakfast.  Still blissfully sleepy and with damp hair, I make up a bowl the same way every morning.  Oats, salt, water, done.

Every morning I finish my routine breakfast bowl with whatever strikes my whim that day, but it always includes my spicy favorite, cinnamon.  Or is it cassia?  I mean, if I’m only paying 99 cents for a big jar of it at some mom and pop joint, which one am I really getting here?  Once the coffee had settled in, I put my fingers to work on the topic. Read the rest of this entry »


Hey Kids! Sausage Fest! …And Other News.

Unprofessional Cookery

Every year for the last 3o some odd years, the Catholic church in my hometown has put on this event called the Sausage Fest.  Yes, really.  Without a hint of irony.  The whole event revolves around fundraising for the school in the theme of recreating a carnival in Bavaria.  It’s actually quite popular.

The entire parish gets into it too!  For months, people plan for midway games, book entertainment (none of it stellar), truck in ears of corn, ship in kielbasa to grill.  Barrels of sauerkraut get prepared.  The Knights of Columbus have 24-7 bingo during sausage fest.  They host a dance for the high schoolers and the middle schoolers complete with LED light displays, disco balls and (again less than stellar) DJ’s.  There’s on site babysitting and a rummage sale too.  This thing is a big deal. Read the rest of this entry »


Bubble, Burst.

unprofessional cookery

Yesterday I was standing in line at my local bodega waiting to pay for my soda and staring into space (which I often do, on both counts).  Normally I just look at the racks of chocolate thinking that I shouldn’t eat them, but yesterday was different.  Something else caught my eye.  Something flashy and colorful and reminiscent of my youth.

Bubble gum.  Not just any bubble gum though, the trifecta of bubble gum competition competing for valuable shelf space.  Bubble Yum, Bubblicious and Hubba Bubba in all of their glory.  The packages elbowed each other slightly, puffing out their chests as if potential suitors.  “Pick me!” they cried, offering hollow offerings of how superior they were to the others.  One bubble gum pack, I believe, bench pressed his neighboring pack in a feat of strength.

Although I was flattered, I left with my original purchase of my soda and nothing more.

Read the rest of this entry »


A Breakfast Dalliance: Dough vs. Peter Pan

Unprofessional Cookery

So let me just start out by saying that I despise restaurant and food critics with a special kind of hatred.  I know, it’s a bit of me being a self hating food writer, but serious.  If you have not had any experience working on the other side of the counter, isn’t any fancy pants new cheese or whatever going to taste “exquisite”?

But, this being known, I am always game for impartial comparisons in the food arena.  I’ve compared chain restaurant foods stoned and sober, but what would it be like to compare one standard favorite food against another fancy favorite food (clearheaded as clearheaded can be)?  Would the old fashioned food without fanfare or slick color coordinated logos trump over something new and “artisanal”?  Was I buying into a sleek marketing rather than good food?  I dove in, head first.

Also to note, I just like doughnuts. Read the rest of this entry »


Oh SNAP.

The other day I was browsing my trusted Facebook news outlet for fair and balanced journalism.  I stumbled upon this article that one of my eight thousand friends had posted regarding commonly held food stamp myths.  My food writing ears perked up at this prospect.

People were erroneously alarmed. “Food stamps are out of control!” The article exclaimed.  “They’re screwing our budget and being handed out like candy to these people!  Poor people eat up valuable government dollars and cause massive inefficiency! Obama is the food stamp president!”

Mmmhmm. Read the rest of this entry »


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